Two Days in Sidi Bou Said
After an intense few days in Libya, a quick seaside stop in Sidi Bou Said, Tunisia was the perfect way to end my North African adventure.
After four days under tight escort in Libya, stepping outside of Tunis-Carthage Airport alone felt both liberating and invigorating. I arrived in Tunisia on an afternoon flight from Tripoli. For Americans (and many other nationalities as well) Tunisia has to be one of the easiest countries in Africa to enter. There’s no visa and no landing card required. A friendly ‘Bonjour!’ to the Immigration Officer—this is a Francophone country after all —and I was on my way.
Sidi Bou Said is generally described as a suburb of Tunis but that fails to capture the uniqueness of the place. A small settlement just 30 minutes from the airport, it feels worlds away from Tunis, a city of 2.5 million. With cobblestone streets, stucco and stone houses painted almost exclusively in blue and white, and a cliffside location, Sidi Bou Said is often described as an Arab Santorini.
I’ve never been to Santorini, but as I take in the views across the Gulf of Tunis from the terrace of my Airbnb I can see the similarities.
As the sun sets I head down to the crowded main drag. After my trip to Libya, I find the presence of so many visitors both overwhelming and electrifying. The narrow lanes are full of day trippers perusing shops filled with cheaply made souvenirs. A group of men is offering selfies with hunting falcons (what is it with the selfie with animal trend in North Africa?) while others press fragrant jasmine bouquets into the hands of strolling couples.
The ancient mosque attracts a small group for the sunset prayer, an eclectic mix of local workers and day trippers. The floor is covered in reed mats which give the space a surprisingly beach-y vibe. Across the courtyard is the shrine of Abu Said al-Baji, the 12th century Sufi scholar from which the city gets its name. I peek into the small space but don’t enter.
Instead, I head back toward the center of town, which is slowly emptying of its tourists. A friend that recently spent some time in Tunisia had recommended bleue! to me. It’s a hipster cafe with a half dozen tables along the sidewalk which are perfect for watching the world pass by. Purusing the menu I’m tempted to order the Chopped Cheese, a classic NYC bodega sandwich, but go with the Iraqi Chicken instead, pleased with the cafe’s and by extension my own worldliness.
The sandwich is fantastic! And I almost order something off of the dessert menu, but instead I head straight for the bambalouni seller up the road. Although it’s gotten late, there’s still a long line of people waiting for a fresh bambalouni; a traditional Tunisian donut—fried, ring-shaped, and dusted generously in sugar. The donut, which I eat while standing, is piping hot, slightly crunchy on the outside but still moist on the inside. Parfait! I can completely understand why every third person I see is enjoying one.
“Off the main road the city is nearly silent and devoid of people, my only company the city’s cats who are themselves heading to bed.”
Having slightly overeaten I head back up to the hill to my Airbnb. Off the main road the city is nearly silent and devoid of people, my only company the city’s cats who are themselves heading to bed.
A Carefree Saturday by the Sea
I purposefully didn’t set my alarm the night before which caused me to wake up too late to enjoy the sunrise over the gulf. Undeterred, I brew a pot of coffee and head out to the terrace to read for a bit and plan my day. Sidi Bou Said boasts a handful of small, well regarded museums, none of which call my attention so I decide instead to walk to the neighboring town of La Marsa, further up the coast.
In the midday Mediterranean sun, La Marsa’s all white color scheme is an assault on my eyes. The light seems to bounce off every surface directly into my retinas. Seeking relief, I pop into a small barber shop for a haircut. There’s half a dozen young men in an exceedingly small space, including, inexplicably, a DJ. Despite the language barrier I get a pretty decent skin fade and beard trim and leave feeling completely relaxed.
“La Marsa’s all white color scheme is an assault on my eyes. The light seems to bounce off every surface directly into my retinas.”
La Marsa has your typical Mediterranean beach resort feel. Small cafes and ice cream parlors with canopies of blooming bougainvillea line the seaside boulevard attracting European and Tunisian visitors alike. The beach itself is somewhat disappointing, but the view from the palm lined promenade makes up for it.
Back in Sidi Bou Said, I decide to take the ‘365 Steps,’ as Google Maps calls them, down to the beach. Surprisingly, considering how well traveled they seem to be, the steps aren’t in the greatest state of repair and the views are marred by trash and debris along the way, but they lead directly to a small sandy beach popular with mostly Tunisian families and a few tourists. I find a free spot to spread out my towel and jump back into my book. I’m happily interrupted by a roving tea salesman, who sells me a small cup of tea complete with fresh mint leaves.
As the sun begins to move behind the cliff the beach becomes shady, prompting beachgoers to dry off and pack up their things. I’m not looking forward to the 365 steps back up the hill, but then I remember the Iraqi Sandwich from last night and regain some of my motivation. I still have some time before my flight so maybe I’ll go back to bleue! or maybe not… the choice is entirely mine to make.
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